Determinants of Climbing Performance: When Finger Flexor Strength and Endurance Count

• Giuseppe Marcolin ^[1] ; Sara Faggian ^[2] ; Muschietti Massimiliano ^[2] ; Luca Matteraglia ^[3] ; Antonio Paoli ^[1]
  1. [1] Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of Padova, Padova, Italy
  2. [2] School of Human Movement Sciences, University of Padova, Padua, Italy
  3. [3] Intelligence Project A.S.D., Padova, Italy

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• Localización: Journal of strength and conditioning research: the research journal of the NSCA, ISSN 1064-8011, Vol. 36, Nº. 4, 2022, págs. 1099-1104
• Idioma: inglés
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• Resumen

  • Aim of the study was: (a) to compare finger flexor strength and endurance among climbers and nonclimbers; (b) to predict climbers' level of ability using climbing-specific strength tests and prolonged fatigue protocols. 17 advanced climbers (ADV), 17 intermediate climbers (INT), and 15 nonclimbers (NOCLIMB) performed a maximal finger grip test on a climbing-specific device, a maximal handgrip test, 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E1), a suspension test on a bar till exhaustion, and again 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E2). Strength values were normalized to body weight (%BW). The handgrip test failed to discriminate ADV from INT. Maximal finger flexor strength differed among ADV (59.90 +/- 9.42 %BW), INT (46.75 +/- 8.40 %BW) and NOCLIMB (36.40 +/- 6.51 %BW) (p < 0.0001; : 0.586). ADV showed the best suspension time (58.55 +/- 14.87 seconds) followed by INT (32.55 +/- 16.87 seconds) and NOCLIMB (17.20 +/- 14.30 seconds) (p < 0.0001;