Resumen de Determinants of Climbing Performance: When Finger Flexor Strength and Endurance Count

Giuseppe Marcolin, Sara Faggian, Muschietti Massimiliano, Luca Matteraglia, Antonio Paoli

• Aim of the study was: (a) to compare finger flexor strength and endurance among climbers and nonclimbers; (b) to predict climbers' level of ability using climbing-specific strength tests and prolonged fatigue protocols. 17 advanced climbers (ADV), 17 intermediate climbers (INT), and 15 nonclimbers (NOCLIMB) performed a maximal finger grip test on a climbing-specific device, a maximal handgrip test, 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E1), a suspension test on a bar till exhaustion, and again 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E2). Strength values were normalized to body weight (%BW). The handgrip test failed to discriminate ADV from INT. Maximal finger flexor strength differed among ADV (59.90 +/- 9.42 %BW), INT (46.75 +/- 8.40 %BW) and NOCLIMB (36.40 +/- 6.51 %BW) (p < 0.0001; : 0.586). ADV showed the best suspension time (58.55 +/- 14.87 seconds) followed by INT (32.55 +/- 16.87 seconds) and NOCLIMB (17.20 +/- 14.30 seconds) (p < 0.0001;